I Love Juhu

I love Juhu

Marshland and a sandy island called Juhu Tara metamorphosed into this queen of the suburbs- Bollywood’s own Beverly Hills. Juhu, with its film-famous beach , coconut palm skyline and its barricaded bungalows is a movie goers Mecca. Crowds congregate every evening , via wide bodied Volvos , or by BEST bus rides from the Vile Parle Station to take in the temples, the sand and the sea . Also to scour the streets for that single second serendipitous glimpse of their favorite film stars – a scene they will describe many times over to enthralled audiences in the great Indian hinterland.

Almost every road in Juhu seems to have own little story. The mini Gandhi ashram, the temples, the tanks, the Bollywood homes  all these are local reference points, as estate agents and autowalas inform all prospective buyers and passers-by with pride. [Even for the suitably inured resident, it is rather a thrill to encounter Shabana Azmi strolling on the beach or wheel one’s trolley past Hema Malini at the Foodland supermarket. At the hip Nalini and Yasmin beauty parlor, you could be flanked by Farah Khan in the midst of a power hair wash and dry, and Dimple Kapadia on the other side. And at Rain and Vie, the beachfront bar, you’re likely to spot Kareena Kapoor, Bobby Deol or Bipasha Basu in animated conversation at the little tables perched atop a softly luminous floor.

But it isn’t all high living in our neighborhood. Next to the giant glass-windowed Shoppers Stop (with its very own Crossword and soon-to-come Moshe’s) is Chandan Cinema. Here, for the princely sum of Rs 40 you can sit back in air-conditioned comfort and watch the latest blockbuster. Crowds of college students, Sindhi and Gujarati families and the inevitable complement of unemployed /part time /playing hooky? young men line up for matinee shows.

Life is lively on the Juhu streets. Spicy vada pav and sweet steaming chai at many street corners find conversational crowds of takers, discussion veering from film star employees to cricket controversies. College students congregate in coffee shops and householders wax expansively with their families over generous dollops of ice cream and milk shake . Gyms, saunas and Jacuzzis dot the area as their many patrons – the yummy mummy’s , the actor wannabe's and the adventuring Buntys and Bablis scour designer boutiques for sensational strappy wonders, as they ready themselves for nights of net working in the areas chic pubs and lounges.

Mostly though, it’s just good to be home. Mornings bring birdsong – emerald green parrots pecking at the coconuts on the palm trees, tiny grey sparrows, shimmering sunbirds and maybe even a mynah. And everywhere, the feel of the sea, just there, or a couple of lanes away. You can see it if you climb high enough – that and a wide open vista beyond foam flecked waves and a blue grey Arabian sea.

NEIGHBOURHOOD GEMS

Juhu Beach All roads in Juhu lead to this stretch of sand and sea. The beach has something for everyone – sports enthusiasts play Frisbee, football or beach cricket mornings and evenings. Walkers, laughter clubs and suryanamaskar practitioners congregate mornings, while evenings turn almost carnival like. Picnicking families set out little rectangular cloths, women unwrap carefully packed parathas and theplas while their kids tuck into pink candy floss, build sandcastles and dip in the sea.

The ISKON Temple Complex With its black and white marble floors, its generous tree- shaded quadrangle and great teak and gold doors that open onto ornate Krishna figures, the temple is worth a visit. There’s also an excellent auditorium that hosts classical dance and music performances. Gourmet meals at the in-house restaurant ‘Govinda’, that connoisseurs delight, with its trademark ‘chappan bhog’ in shudh ghee, are the icing on this cake. At Hare Krishna Land, Juhu Tel 26206860. Temple opens from 4am – 1 pm and 4-9 pm. ‘Govinda’ open all days of the week from 12.30 -3 pm and 7.30-10 pm . Meal for two Rs.1100

The Centre for Arts and Crafts. Originally Contemporary Arts and Crafts, this store has a new name, but retains its distinct feel. It’s crammed with mix of irresistible artifacts - pottery, lamps and even a warm wooden bar. Tribal masks, silver Ganeshas and wicker furniture too. This a great store to pick up unusual presents and the displays are gorgeous. They play Buddha Bar, but don’t let that put you off. There’s a smell of freshly roasted coffee from the tiny café. Seating is outside, under dark blue canopies  nice, except when it’s raining. At 9, Juhu Supreme Shopping Centre, Gulmohar Cross Road no 9. Tel 26204668 . Open all days of the week from 10am -8 pm

Bharat Scouts and Guides Grounds – Turn off the Juhu Military Canteen road at the police Chowky, past Rutumbara/ Sanghavi College and suddenly out of nowhere, you have an amazing, almost endless expanse of verdant green. There’s a series of tennis courts here , six or more and often a cricket game in progress too.
Off Juhu Military Road, past Ritumbara College Most games between 7 am to 6 pm


Prithvi Café Sip mint tea or coffee, splurge on brownies or get serious with chicken tikka at this arty outdoor café, ringed by bamboo trees. The crowd here is an interesting mix of intense artists, articulate writers, hippie girls and lets-hang-out-in-an arty-place others. Besides Prithvi theatre there’s also The Corner Bookshop for a bit of browsing. At Janaki Kutir, Off Juhu Church Road. Tel 26149546 Open all days from 12.30 in the afternoon to 11.30 at night.


Mahesh Lunch Home Spicy tandoori pomfret, tiger prawns, Mangalorean fish bathed in satisfyingly rich coconut gravy. Mahesh Lunch Home is a branch of the original thing in Fort and located very accessibly on Juhu Tara Road promises all that and more. Only, one wishes the décor was not so Udipi-turned-prosperous plush. At Juhu Tara Road, next to Hotel Tulip Star Tel no 56955554, 56978966/8967 Open all days of the week for lunch from 12-3.30 and in the evenings from 7 - 12.30 PM. Meal for two Rs.500

Natural Ice Cream The winning combination of fruit and creamy kulfi-like ice cream was born here. Today Natural of JVPD has branches all over Mumbai, but the original Juhu outlet continues to do brisk business. Crowds converge at all hours Seasonal specials are posted on boards – strawberries, sitaphal, watermelon , cheeku or tender coconut….all very hard to choose between , even after sampling tiny white plastic spoons of each.
At 13th North South Road, Opp.Lotus Eye Hospital Tel 26707558, 26206053. Open all days of the week . From 10AM – 12.30 midnight. Prices range from Rs. 25 a scoop of ice cream upward

An edited version of this appeared in Timeout January 14th 2006